28.12.04
Flashback: Quebec
Naughty Monkey!
During the Spring, Monkey enjoyed a lovely trip to Quebec. The Old City was very charming - filled with beautiful stone buildings, tasty pastry shops, and beautiful views. Monkey got to see many things and get in a little mischief by using the cat stairs.
Plains of Abraham - Quebec
Monkey Will Be Home for Christmas
Monkey on the Bus
Monkey and I had to take the bus home for Christmas this year. I have always said that there is a Weirdness Quota for every bus and if you look around and can't find the freak, it's you. I suppose that photographing your traveling companion, who happens to be a stuffed monkey, could easily land me as the bus weirdo. But in this case, I was running dead last for that title. There was the middle-aged guy who had Christmas Carols blaring on his headphones loud enough for all to hear and was speaking to no one in particular. Then there was the man across from me who was sleeping with his shirt both untucked and completely unbuttoned but was polite enough to redo it for each of his many trips to the bathroom. There were others as well. I suspect the high number of crazies was needed to keep the percentage of weirdness even on a packed holiday-weekend bus.
Once home, Monkey quite enjoyed the Christmas tree.
Monkey is the Star
The Tree In Question
4.12.04
1.12.04
Having a Torrid Affair
There are many different styles of travel. Some like to travel in luxury, others like to rough it. Some people like to have a Whitman's Sampler of a vacation, others more of a six-course feast. I like to have a brief, hot and heavy affair with a new city. Not a superficial, shallow one - just one where the knowledge that it isn't forever makes it all the more enjoyable.
Like in a passionate fling, you can get a lot more out of a vacation if you just abandon yourself to the city. Do what the locals do, or do what the locals find totally lame - go to a small homestyle eatery and order the most ethnic dish you can find, ask how best to eat it, make friends with your server or other patrons because it's not weird to talk to strangers if they speak another language. Then go to the most tourist trap club or attraction or historical site. Worry about embarrassing yourself by being rude or ignoring local customs, not by pulling out a map in the middle of the street and identifying yourself as gasp a tourist. Do things you'd never do at home - take the bus, eat red meat, sing karaoke.
Another advantage to approaching a trip in this way is that it makes everything more charming. Much like your honey's habit of singing off-key to every song on the radio, things that might annoy you in the long term can be at least tolerated and at best actually enjoyed. The metro "just doesn't stop there" today? No problem, get off somewhere else and have a new adventure or get in a long walk. Feel like the waiter is studiously ignoring you? Take advantage of the fact that you can sit at the table, converse, and consult your guidebook as long as you want without paying for more than a cup of coffee.
Bearing in mind that your visit isn't the beginning of a serious commitment, you can focus on just what you want without guilt. You wouldn't feel like you had to attend family Thanksgiving with a brief liaison, so if that famous art gallery or music venue just isn't your scene, don't feel pressure to go.
That's how I like to vacation. The best part is that, even though your mother warned you that sort of hanky-panky never led anywhere, you might accidentally fall in love with your new city.
Like in a passionate fling, you can get a lot more out of a vacation if you just abandon yourself to the city. Do what the locals do, or do what the locals find totally lame - go to a small homestyle eatery and order the most ethnic dish you can find, ask how best to eat it, make friends with your server or other patrons because it's not weird to talk to strangers if they speak another language. Then go to the most tourist trap club or attraction or historical site. Worry about embarrassing yourself by being rude or ignoring local customs, not by pulling out a map in the middle of the street and identifying yourself as gasp a tourist. Do things you'd never do at home - take the bus, eat red meat, sing karaoke.
Another advantage to approaching a trip in this way is that it makes everything more charming. Much like your honey's habit of singing off-key to every song on the radio, things that might annoy you in the long term can be at least tolerated and at best actually enjoyed. The metro "just doesn't stop there" today? No problem, get off somewhere else and have a new adventure or get in a long walk. Feel like the waiter is studiously ignoring you? Take advantage of the fact that you can sit at the table, converse, and consult your guidebook as long as you want without paying for more than a cup of coffee.
Bearing in mind that your visit isn't the beginning of a serious commitment, you can focus on just what you want without guilt. You wouldn't feel like you had to attend family Thanksgiving with a brief liaison, so if that famous art gallery or music venue just isn't your scene, don't feel pressure to go.
That's how I like to vacation. The best part is that, even though your mother warned you that sort of hanky-panky never led anywhere, you might accidentally fall in love with your new city.
1.11.04
Octoberfest at Julie's - Holyoke, MA
28.10.04
26.10.04
15.10.04
Savannah Ghost Tour
Kehoe House
Haunted tours may seem a little dorky or gimmicky to some, but a good one will mix history and gossip to give you a different, insider's view of the city. Savannah certainly has its share of haunted tours available - some by trolley, one by pop-up hearse, and many by foot. I lucked out when I chose the Hauntings Tour that sets out from Wright Square at 7 & 9, nightly.
Savannah has been named the Most Haunted City in America, but our tour guide Robert disagrees and begins to list off a number of cities that are probably just as haunted or moreso - Salem, Boston, Chicago, New Orleans. But just that little introduction puts you in the mood to see spirits and to feel like Savannah may not be more haunted than those other cities, but they sure seem to be comfortable living with the dead. Robert says one reason for this is that Savannahians literally live with the dead - human remains from one era or another are likely just beneath your feet any time you are walking through the historic downtown area.
The Hauntings Tour covers a relatively small area between Wright Square and Colonial Park cemetery, but is packed with history and legend. The tour is based on two books that have backed up old ghost tales with historical documentation. One is Savannah Spectres, written in the 90's, and the other is Drums and Shadows, a collection of local African-American traditions and folklore written in the 30's. After a few stops, though, it becomes clear that native-son Robert is an impressive oral historian with a network of informants all over the city. At most stops, he has a story related by a waiter or inn guest within the past few years.
Besides the more ghoulish aspects of the city, Robert is quick to rattle off the history and etymology of Georgia Grey Bricks and the pranks that Sherman's troops played in the graveyard during the war of Northern aggression (There it is again!!). He can tell you the history of each floor of the buildings we pass - from builders through owners and renovators, and which hurricanes, fires and plagues caused the changes.
Two of the more haunted spots we stop at are also the most interesting architecturally and historically. Both the Owens-Thomas house and its near neighbor the Kehoe House were built to be indestructible come hell or high water (literally). After 3 major fires and who knows how many hurricanes, a few wealthy folks around town decided to build impervious fortresses.
The Owens-Thomas House is notable for a number of reasons. It was designed by architect William Jay before he was even 21, is made of thick tabby, Lafayette gave a speech from the side balcony, and it's good and haunted. The long gone lady of the house is often seen strolling about her garden and Jim Williams (can't escape him in this city) reported seeing a ghost he called The Horseman in the upstairs apartments in 1966.
The Kehoe House's first owner was the head of the Iron Foundry, so he took a slightly different approach to making his house indestructible. All the outside trim - moldings, shutters, even the stair railing - is made of iron and is thus fireproof! The house actually served as a mortuary for a number of decades and guests now eat their breakfast in the viewing room. Recent guests have added a number of eyewitness ghost sitings to the tour. One night, two different guests heard an ear-piercing scream followed by the sound of a body falling downstairs. Both ran out of their rooms to find only each other in the hallway. Another guest stayed home from the Oktoberfest fireworks last year, only to be pestered by a ghostly little girl who was scared by the loud noise of the display.
Downtown Monkeys
This monkey was hanging out at the Moon River Brewery
The Brewery was pretty good, though I only sampled the Wit beer and the Savannah Fest, they were both awesome. But the best part was that in the history of the building on the back of the menu, they used the phrase "The war of Northern Aggression" - nice!
Monkey wants to check his email
This little monkey wanted to check his email at the Boba cafe in City Market. I really liked all the coffee and tea houses in Savannah. Most were pretty comfy and they all served wine or beer, which is so European I love it! The barrista at Boba was super friendly and answered all my questions about tourists and the downtown restoration and the Red Sox :-)
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